I reached Bulak Say farm on 30 Aug, but the past 12 days feel like a month. Everyday there is something new happening, and it is not till the last day that I seem to have time to quietly gather and arrange my thoughts and update the blog.
Some people have asked me where on earth I am. This is Karakol, a town of 75,000 people in eastern Kyrgyzstan. It is at the eastern side of Lake Issy-Kol - it means "hot lake" as it never freezes, and has a moderating effect on the climate of the surrounding area. Karakol is the administrative centre for the Issy-Kol province, and is used by travellers as a base for treks to the Terskey Ala-Too and Tien-Shan mountains nearby.
I have been staying at Bulak Say farm, which is on a hill at the fringe of Jolgolot (Джол-Колот) village, to the eastern side of Karakol. Below the farm, the land beyond the stream falls away into a wide expanse of grassy fields, where the horses and livestock of the village graze, and potato and vegetable fields. Behind the farm, the land rises up to rolling hills or jailoos (summer pastures for livestock).
At Bulak Say, one wakes up to a regular sequence and symphony of sounds on the farm - the rooster starts crowing around 5.20am, the cow moos as it is milked or is shoo-ed to the fields to graze, the chickens cluck and quarrel as they are released from their coop to feed, the dogs start barking and the two boys' shouts and laughter as they play before breakfast.
The kitchen is the communal area. At meal times, everyone sits or kneels on carpets around the low dinner table. There is always a bread basket with homemade butter and jams, biscuits and dried fruits, and a generous supply of "chai" (tea) (tea drinking is a big custom here). Over a wood fire stove, Jyldyz creates delicious dinners to feed an army. In the oven, you might find a large loaf of round flat bread (typical here) baking away.
Compared to city living, conditions at the farm are basic. While there is piped in electricity, water still has to be carried manually from the stream for all purposes. It makes you extra careful with the water you use, and doubly appreciative of your shower. But it just reduces your needs to a more simple plane, and makes you re-think what you really need and want.
Yes, I don't really need perfectly clean nails, clothes, shoes and showers. And yes, I don't really need a sofa, watch TV or surf internet all day.And yes, I have been happy with breathing fresh air (tinged with the smell of manure sometimes), enjoying fresh milk and vegetables on the table, freshly baked bread every few days, and the choice of an active lifestyle.
In the evenings, when there is good weather, the sunset creates a spectacular show in front of the farm. The sun hangs low, a burning fiery orange sphere over the grey expanse of settlements of Jolgolot and Karakol, the orange rays becoming more and more diffused as it sinks into the dusty horizon, until what is left is a layer of amber glow above the dark earth. Between dusk and dark night, the lights of the village down below start twinkling. The moon has risen behind the farmhouse, and throws its pale rays across the jailoo. In time, the twinking stars dot the night sky.
