I reached Bulak Say farm on 30 Aug, but the past 12 days feel like a month. Everyday there is something new happening, and it is not till the last day that I seem to have time to quietly gather and arrange my thoughts and update the blog.
Some people have asked me where on earth I am. This is Karakol, a town of 75,000 people in eastern Kyrgyzstan. It is at the eastern side of Lake Issy-Kol - it means "hot lake" as it never freezes, and has a moderating effect on the climate of the surrounding area. Karakol is the administrative centre for the Issy-Kol province, and is used by travellers as a base for treks to the Terskey Ala-Too and Tien-Shan mountains nearby.
I have been staying at Bulak Say farm, which is on a hill at the fringe of Jolgolot (Джол-Колот) village, to the eastern side of Karakol. Below the farm, the land beyond the stream falls away into a wide expanse of grassy fields, where the horses and livestock of the village graze, and potato and vegetable fields. Behind the farm, the land rises up to rolling hills or jailoos (summer pastures for livestock).
At Bulak Say, one wakes up to a regular sequence and symphony of sounds on the farm - the rooster starts crowing around 5.20am, the cow moos as it is milked or is shoo-ed to the fields to graze, the chickens cluck and quarrel as they are released from their coop to feed, the dogs start barking and the two boys' shouts and laughter as they play before breakfast.
The kitchen is the communal area. At meal times, everyone sits or kneels on carpets around the low dinner table. There is always a bread basket with homemade butter and jams, biscuits and dried fruits, and a generous supply of "chai" (tea) (tea drinking is a big custom here). Over a wood fire stove, Jyldyz creates delicious dinners to feed an army. In the oven, you might find a large loaf of round flat bread (typical here) baking away.
Compared to city living, conditions at the farm are basic. While there is piped in electricity, water still has to be carried manually from the stream for all purposes. It makes you extra careful with the water you use, and doubly appreciative of your shower. But it just reduces your needs to a more simple plane, and makes you re-think what you really need and want.
Yes, I don't really need perfectly clean nails, clothes, shoes and showers. And yes, I don't really need a sofa, watch TV or surf internet all day.And yes, I have been happy with breathing fresh air (tinged with the smell of manure sometimes), enjoying fresh milk and vegetables on the table, freshly baked bread every few days, and the choice of an active lifestyle.
In the evenings, when there is good weather, the sunset creates a spectacular show in front of the farm. The sun hangs low, a burning fiery orange sphere over the grey expanse of settlements of Jolgolot and Karakol, the orange rays becoming more and more diffused as it sinks into the dusty horizon, until what is left is a layer of amber glow above the dark earth. Between dusk and dark night, the lights of the village down below start twinkling. The moon has risen behind the farmhouse, and throws its pale rays across the jailoo. In time, the twinking stars dot the night sky.
Wednesday, September 12, 2012
Friday, August 31, 2012
Sights & Sounds of Karakol
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| the yurt I stay in has 4 beds, and a priceless view |
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| view from the farm towards Jolgolot village |
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| Ines preparing French crepes, because the boys love it - and so do we |
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| crepes with chocolate & bananas, with fresh grapes on the side. 5-star hotel quality |
It is Independence Day in Kyrgyzstan today, so we are going to see the celebrations in Karakol town. It's an excursion for the boys too, and they are super excited. Watch them tear off down the 15 mins dirt trail from Bulak Say to the bus stop at Jolgolot! (together with Tusia, one of the farm dogs, which thinks we are going on a hike)
They encounter a momentary pause, as the 3 year old is stuck on a little slope on the trail. He is afraid to go down! So his 7 year old brother runs back to rescue him, and here they come tearing off together again.
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| the crowds at Karakol's main square |
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| very good Kyrgyz singers |
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| ashlanfu, tasty spicy cold noodles |
Thursday, August 30, 2012
At Karakol and Bulak Say horse farm
We bade our friendly hosts at Radison Guesthouse farewell in the morning, and found the bus to Karakol at Bishkek avtovoksal (bus station) without problems. After a 6-hour long bumpy, dusty bus ride, we are in Karakol!
I finally got to meet Ines, the lovely German girl working at Bulak Say horse farm, whom I had been corresponding with. Matt and Amanda decided to stay at Bulak Say horse farm too, so we will share the yurt tonight! We just met the Kyrgyz family running the farm - Almaz and his wife, and 2 hyperactive, super cute sons, 3 and 7 years old.
We are here at a good time as tomorrow is Kyrgyzstan's independence day, and there will be horse games at Karakol. Perhaps we will go to watch!
The sunset outside the house is lighting up the farm beautifully, so I shall not stay on the computer any longer. Looking forward to adjusting to Kyrgyz farm life and horse riding in the week to come.
I finally got to meet Ines, the lovely German girl working at Bulak Say horse farm, whom I had been corresponding with. Matt and Amanda decided to stay at Bulak Say horse farm too, so we will share the yurt tonight! We just met the Kyrgyz family running the farm - Almaz and his wife, and 2 hyperactive, super cute sons, 3 and 7 years old.
We are here at a good time as tomorrow is Kyrgyzstan's independence day, and there will be horse games at Karakol. Perhaps we will go to watch!
The sunset outside the house is lighting up the farm beautifully, so I shall not stay on the computer any longer. Looking forward to adjusting to Kyrgyz farm life and horse riding in the week to come.
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| the yurt where i stay, overlooking the blinking lights of Karakol town in the distance |
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| Bulak Say community enjoying a delicious Kyrgyz dinner prepared by Jyldyz (4th from left), the able wife of Almaz (1st left). Ines is 3rd from left. Simon & Jonathan from France (back of photo) have just finished 3 weeks of horse trekking from Karakol to Naryn. Matt & Amanda on the right. |
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| making French crepes. i am taking instructions from Almaz & Jyldyz's 7-yr old elder son |
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Hello Bishkek
29 Aug 2012
Morning brought a different impression of Bishkek city. Under blue skies and sunny weather, even potholes in the sidewalk look quaint and charming.
Radison Guesthouse was my home away from home in Bishkek. Besides being a comfortable base, the family that runs the guesthouse is kind and helpful, especially Guliya, with her motherly nature.
At breakfast, I met the other guests staying at Radison Guesthouse. There was an adventurous family (Dad, Mom, 11 year old daughter) from Brighton in UK, and a young, handsome American couple, Matt and Amanda.
Matt and Amanda were also heading to Karakol - and yes they would be happy to delay their journey by one day, and go Karakol together with me. Yes! Suddenly I have two fun and reliable travelling buddies, to explore Bishkek with, and to take the long road trip to east Kyrgyzstan. Pure serendipity.
Matt and Amanda are on a 4-months long adventure through Russia, Central Asia and China. They are taking the Trans-Siberian rail eastwards to Mongolia and Beijing, with a detour through Central Asia (Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan) in the middle.
After Kyrgyzstan, they were going to Barnaul and Altai Republic - kinda retracing the route I had come by. I was glad to share some info and pics on nature in Russian Altai. But I could not give much practical tips on the public transport situation - having been pretty much a piece of 'cargo' on LandRover from Novosibirsk to Altai!
I was pleasantly surprised by the green boulevards and flowers galore on Bishkek's streets. (Yes, that pyramid shaped green structure is a stack of potted plants - Bishkek's answer to roadside greenery.)
The key places of interest were the massive Ala-Too Square, Panfilov, Dubovy and Erkindik Parks. In Dubovy park, there was a covered alley that housed art stalls by day, and karaoke stalls at night - the leisure options of Bishkek-ites are very diverse indeed. There is an amusement park in Panfilov Park, and we had a great time reliving our childhood with the go-kart and big swing rides.
Around 9pm, we dropped by Metro bar for a quiet beer. As we started chatting with the bar owner Richard, Mike (owner of Dragon's Den bar) and a German expat, one beer led to two, a tour of the bar (it was a former theatre), and an exciting game of table soccer (with the worse ball, ever).
At 1am, Richard offered to bring us to a Bishkek nightclub "Golden Bull". We went along, curious to see the nightlife of Bishkek ... and it was empty and we had the whole dance floor to ourselves. Well, it is after all a Wed night in Bishkek! At 2+am, we were ringing the doorbell of Radison Guesthouse for Guliya to open the door, feeling like guilty teenagers who had stayed out too late.
I had met up with Grif Peterson (a friend''s friend working in Bishkek) that morning. "The great thing about Bishkek is how accessible it is to the nature, leave the city and go out to the mountains!" Grif had urged in the morning.
Yup, we are taking Grif's good advice and will be heading out to Karakol soon. Next up, yurt stay and horse riding!
Morning brought a different impression of Bishkek city. Under blue skies and sunny weather, even potholes in the sidewalk look quaint and charming.
Radison Guesthouse was my home away from home in Bishkek. Besides being a comfortable base, the family that runs the guesthouse is kind and helpful, especially Guliya, with her motherly nature.
At breakfast, I met the other guests staying at Radison Guesthouse. There was an adventurous family (Dad, Mom, 11 year old daughter) from Brighton in UK, and a young, handsome American couple, Matt and Amanda.
Matt and Amanda were also heading to Karakol - and yes they would be happy to delay their journey by one day, and go Karakol together with me. Yes! Suddenly I have two fun and reliable travelling buddies, to explore Bishkek with, and to take the long road trip to east Kyrgyzstan. Pure serendipity.
Matt and Amanda are on a 4-months long adventure through Russia, Central Asia and China. They are taking the Trans-Siberian rail eastwards to Mongolia and Beijing, with a detour through Central Asia (Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan) in the middle.
After Kyrgyzstan, they were going to Barnaul and Altai Republic - kinda retracing the route I had come by. I was glad to share some info and pics on nature in Russian Altai. But I could not give much practical tips on the public transport situation - having been pretty much a piece of 'cargo' on LandRover from Novosibirsk to Altai!
I was pleasantly surprised by the green boulevards and flowers galore on Bishkek's streets. (Yes, that pyramid shaped green structure is a stack of potted plants - Bishkek's answer to roadside greenery.)
The key places of interest were the massive Ala-Too Square, Panfilov, Dubovy and Erkindik Parks. In Dubovy park, there was a covered alley that housed art stalls by day, and karaoke stalls at night - the leisure options of Bishkek-ites are very diverse indeed. There is an amusement park in Panfilov Park, and we had a great time reliving our childhood with the go-kart and big swing rides.
Around 9pm, we dropped by Metro bar for a quiet beer. As we started chatting with the bar owner Richard, Mike (owner of Dragon's Den bar) and a German expat, one beer led to two, a tour of the bar (it was a former theatre), and an exciting game of table soccer (with the worse ball, ever).
At 1am, Richard offered to bring us to a Bishkek nightclub "Golden Bull". We went along, curious to see the nightlife of Bishkek ... and it was empty and we had the whole dance floor to ourselves. Well, it is after all a Wed night in Bishkek! At 2+am, we were ringing the doorbell of Radison Guesthouse for Guliya to open the door, feeling like guilty teenagers who had stayed out too late.
I had met up with Grif Peterson (a friend''s friend working in Bishkek) that morning. "The great thing about Bishkek is how accessible it is to the nature, leave the city and go out to the mountains!" Grif had urged in the morning.
Yup, we are taking Grif's good advice and will be heading out to Karakol soon. Next up, yurt stay and horse riding!
More Altai photos
Wonderful photos of our expedition taken by Anna Barashkova on the Siberian Environmental Centre website -
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.380386792031065.86690.186533394749740&type=1
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.380386792031065.86690.186533394749740&type=1
Encounters with airports and taxi drivers
28 Aug 2012
In typical fashion, I came razor-thin close to missing my 4pm flight to Bishkek. As my private (likely unlicensed) taxi pulled away from Hostel Zokol at 240pm, I asked the driver "how long to airport?"
"30, 40 minutes maybe."
"Ohhhh..." My eyebrows shot up. "Can we ... go faster?"
My soft-spoken Russian driver smiled enigmatically "We try. Many cars."
I was on edge the next 20 mins, secretly willing all the traffic in front to melt away; while maintaining a broken conversation with the driver with limited Russian and English vocab. It is actually possible with the use of key choice words:
- "where from?"
- "Singapore."
- "Ah."
(driver smiles and nods. Not sure if he really knows my tiny country)
- "Why here? Turist?"
- "Da (yes). Da (yes)."
*pause*
- "I go Altai, look for 'sniezny bars' (snow leopards)"
- "Ahh, Altai."
(driver smiles. I go on, encouraged.)
- "Altai, krasivy (beautiful). Bania (bath) harasho (very good)" (driver smiles and nods)
etc etc
We reached airport at 3.05pm. Relieved, I jumped out, and mustered the rest of my limited Russian vocab - "spasiba! (thank you), ochin priyatna!(nice to meet you), das vidanya! (goodbye)"
Cleared passport control in record time, but got stuck at airport security - I had left my Swiss army knife in hand luggage! It is impossible to get a Swiss army knife through Russian security. So it stays in Novosibirsk.
Pity! I was kicking myself inside. The knife was so new - its moment of glory was when Oleg used it to open a celebratory bottle of red wine at our last dinner at Altai base camp. But still, I caught my flight, and thats what matters.
The flight was relatively uneventful. I managed to doze off, even with a bawling Kyrgyz toddler next to me. Well, I guess having 5 nieces / nephews at home every Sunday is good training.
It was grey and gloomy when we touched down in Bishkek close to 6pm, but the temperature was a balmier 24 deg C. I got through passport control smoothly - the new Kyrgyz visa-free policy for selected countries (including Singapore) really works!
Emerging into the arrival hall, we were confronted by the familiar horde of taxi touts. I must be a prime target, with a massive backpack and daypack.
I walked around with a glassy-eyed stare and resolute head shake to these advances, searching for my driver from Radison Guesthouse. Still couldn't find anyone holding my name plate, after walking around the hall two rounds. I started getting a bit worried. Here I was, with no Kyrgyz money (yet), and no phone reception (yup, Starhub doesn't have partners in Kyrgyzstan), and no idea which Kyrgyz taxi company was reliable.
At this point, one of the young Kyrgyz touts detached himself from the crowd and walked over, "Devushka (young lady) ..." I was starting my anti-tout head shake, when he pulled out his phone, pointed at mine and continued "You have number to call?"
Oh! This kind stranger had noticed my distress. I felt an instant rush of gratitude - and shame at my initial tendency to be unfriendly. My driver, Mr Farid, turned up at this point. I tried to convey my gratitude to the kind stranger with a loud "spasiba!" and big smile, before leaving with Mr Farid - relieved that I didn't have to negotiate this city by myself, and glad that there are good people here.
In typical fashion, I came razor-thin close to missing my 4pm flight to Bishkek. As my private (likely unlicensed) taxi pulled away from Hostel Zokol at 240pm, I asked the driver "how long to airport?"
"30, 40 minutes maybe."
"Ohhhh..." My eyebrows shot up. "Can we ... go faster?"
My soft-spoken Russian driver smiled enigmatically "We try. Many cars."
I was on edge the next 20 mins, secretly willing all the traffic in front to melt away; while maintaining a broken conversation with the driver with limited Russian and English vocab. It is actually possible with the use of key choice words:
- "where from?"
- "Singapore."
- "Ah."
(driver smiles and nods. Not sure if he really knows my tiny country)
- "Why here? Turist?"
- "Da (yes). Da (yes)."
*pause*
- "I go Altai, look for 'sniezny bars' (snow leopards)"
- "Ahh, Altai."
(driver smiles. I go on, encouraged.)
- "Altai, krasivy (beautiful). Bania (bath) harasho (very good)" (driver smiles and nods)
etc etc
We reached airport at 3.05pm. Relieved, I jumped out, and mustered the rest of my limited Russian vocab - "spasiba! (thank you), ochin priyatna!(nice to meet you), das vidanya! (goodbye)"
Cleared passport control in record time, but got stuck at airport security - I had left my Swiss army knife in hand luggage! It is impossible to get a Swiss army knife through Russian security. So it stays in Novosibirsk.
Pity! I was kicking myself inside. The knife was so new - its moment of glory was when Oleg used it to open a celebratory bottle of red wine at our last dinner at Altai base camp. But still, I caught my flight, and thats what matters.
The flight was relatively uneventful. I managed to doze off, even with a bawling Kyrgyz toddler next to me. Well, I guess having 5 nieces / nephews at home every Sunday is good training.
It was grey and gloomy when we touched down in Bishkek close to 6pm, but the temperature was a balmier 24 deg C. I got through passport control smoothly - the new Kyrgyz visa-free policy for selected countries (including Singapore) really works!
Emerging into the arrival hall, we were confronted by the familiar horde of taxi touts. I must be a prime target, with a massive backpack and daypack.
I walked around with a glassy-eyed stare and resolute head shake to these advances, searching for my driver from Radison Guesthouse. Still couldn't find anyone holding my name plate, after walking around the hall two rounds. I started getting a bit worried. Here I was, with no Kyrgyz money (yet), and no phone reception (yup, Starhub doesn't have partners in Kyrgyzstan), and no idea which Kyrgyz taxi company was reliable.
At this point, one of the young Kyrgyz touts detached himself from the crowd and walked over, "Devushka (young lady) ..." I was starting my anti-tout head shake, when he pulled out his phone, pointed at mine and continued "You have number to call?"
Oh! This kind stranger had noticed my distress. I felt an instant rush of gratitude - and shame at my initial tendency to be unfriendly. My driver, Mr Farid, turned up at this point. I tried to convey my gratitude to the kind stranger with a loud "spasiba!" and big smile, before leaving with Mr Farid - relieved that I didn't have to negotiate this city by myself, and glad that there are good people here.
Monday, August 27, 2012
saying goodbye to Russia and Altai for now
28 Aug 2012
Saying goodbye is the hardest. As I write this post, I am preparing to leave Novosibirsk for Bishkek in a short while - last member of the Altai team to leave! Even BE staff, Adam and Kate, have flown off this morning.
There is so much to think and write about. But this will have to come later.
But it is good to read the good news on Biosphere Expeditions blog that a snow leopard has been filmed on their camera trap in Mongolia! It is only when you have seen first hand how hard it is to set up and retrieve camera traps - that you would appreciate the preciousness of such footage.
Some Coldplay music for the onward journey to Kyrgyzstan.
A Russian girl from Krasnoyarsk, also staying at Hostel Zokol, has just given me a calendar with St Nicholas (patron saint for travelling) for good luck. I don't even know her name. But this little gesture of hers is heartwarming. So ready or not, it is onward to Bishkek for me.
До свидания Russia and Altai - for now!
Saying goodbye is the hardest. As I write this post, I am preparing to leave Novosibirsk for Bishkek in a short while - last member of the Altai team to leave! Even BE staff, Adam and Kate, have flown off this morning.
There is so much to think and write about. But this will have to come later.
But it is good to read the good news on Biosphere Expeditions blog that a snow leopard has been filmed on their camera trap in Mongolia! It is only when you have seen first hand how hard it is to set up and retrieve camera traps - that you would appreciate the preciousness of such footage.
Some Coldplay music for the onward journey to Kyrgyzstan.
A Russian girl from Krasnoyarsk, also staying at Hostel Zokol, has just given me a calendar with St Nicholas (patron saint for travelling) for good luck. I don't even know her name. But this little gesture of hers is heartwarming. So ready or not, it is onward to Bishkek for me.
До свидания Russia and Altai - for now!
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